Of Monuments and Men

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

"What America needs now is a drink." 

- FDR

"A pack of jackasses led by a lion is superior to 

a pack of lions led by a jackass."

-George Washington

 

"The most reliable way to predict the future

is to create it."  

- Abraham Lincoln

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"A well informed citizenry is the best defense
against tyranny."- Thomas Jefferson

 

Korean War: 36,516 US deaths
WWII: 405,399 US deaths
Vietnam War: 58,209 US deaths

Savannah Smiles

Our final stop on this Woodman family adventure took us to the charming and picturesque town of Savannah, Georgia. A city both rich with tradition and troubled in its dark history, it proved to be a memorable time for all.

 

Savannah is well known as one of the most haunted cities in America. So, obviously our first stop was a walking ghost tour through the historic section of downtown. Here we learned all about this city's disturbing past, from sweeping epidemics to mass deaths. And probably the most troubling, the overwhelming neglect and mistreatment of burial sites. There are untold numbers of buried dead bodies, unmarked, just about everywhere throughout this historic section. When your city is built on a  premise for several horror movies, bad things tend to happen.

After the initial creep out factor, we settled into Savannah and began to appreciate it for what it is, a beautiful, and very accessible town. Not only was it easy to get around, but with over 20 town squares and beautiful homes everywhere you look, there was plenty to see. The evergreen live oak with their drooping, curvaceous branches, draped in Spanish moss added yet another bit of Southern quality to Savannah's charm.

Forsyth Park

On our second day we met up with our friends the Kasparek family, who coincidentally happen to be swinging through town. This time another historical walking tour, only with out all the creepy stories.

Nina shows concern. Nadia, not so much.

Beach time

As an added bonus to this already enjoyable town, the beach was just a short 20 minute drive away. Tybee Island sits on the Atlantic just south of the popular destination of Hilton Head, South Carolina. Less crowded than most beaches, but with all the laid back vibes of any beach town, Tybee was the ideal destination for our family. The waves were big enough, but not too big. The water was clean and the perfect temperature. There were plenty of sea shells to collect. And, most importantly (to Norah) no jellyfish! On our 3rd day at the beach, a group of dolphins swam within 20 yards of us. What a great beach!

Let us not overlook our main reason for taking this trip in the first place. Nina had qualified to participate in the YMCA National Gymnastics meet to be held in Savannah. With over 1700 gymnasts from 71 different teams from all over the country, it was a big deal. Everywhere we went in town, we saw girls doing cartwheels, and handstands, and well, basically acting like Nina. The meet itself lasted for three days, with Nina competing one of those days. The competition was tough. Lots of teams traveled in large numbers. Nina was one of just 5 kids from her Y that made the trip. She performed well, and even managed to medal on bars, her worst apparatus typically. We were all very proud of her accomplishments.

Beaming with pride

You Say You Want a Revolution

Our kids are history nerds. Specifically, American History nerds. It wasn't something we planned. We didn't push them into it. Personally, I find history fascinating now, but I wasn't really that way as a kid. This wasn't our agenda. We didn't force it down their throats. No, they truly love it. On their own. 

“If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace.”

― Thomas Paine

Part of me likes to think it all started on our trip to Mount Rushmore. Something about being it that place, and seeing those faces carved on a mountain. It sparked an interest in them that hasn't subsided. In reality, though, it probably has more to do with their love of the American Girl franchise. When they lived. Where they lived. How they lived. Whatever it was, anything historically American, they devoured. Presidents and First Ladies. Battles and Wars. What people ate. How they dressed. How they died. All of it. So, since we were going to be in some of the most historically significant places in our country, we would seize the opportunity. We'd witness first hand where our country was born. We'd stand in the same places our founding fathers once stood. We'd visit their final resting places. We'd take it all in. We would learn from our past.

It all started in Boston. And by that, I mean our country began there. The first ideas of Revolution and Independence were born in what was once the largest city in the colonies. Eventually, most of the major events that lead us down the path of war also happened there. The thinkers, the radicals, the patriots all began in Boston. So, it made sense that we started our field trip there, at the center of colonial resistance.

“The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time 

to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.”

- Thomas Jefferson

March 5, 1770. For two years now, tensions had been building, as British troops occupied Boston in an attempt to squash the ever growing dissent. Fights between citizens and soldiers were commonplace. That night, a crowd began harassing a group of soldiers guarding the customs house. Snowballs were thrown. Someone discharged their musket, sparking a volley into the crowd. Five civilians were killed.

"Life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness"

Today Boston is a big city, filled with all the trappings that comes with being one. Yet over the centuries, as it grew into what it is, a serious effort was made to preserve the important historical places amid the bustling metropolis. The freedom trail is one result of that. This 2½ mile long path runs through the city and connects (literally with red bricks) all these important spots. Museums. Churches. Meeting houses. Burial grounds. Historic markers. We would begin here.

Throughout my schooling, the American Revolution was hammered into our brains. Every year. We learned the causes. The dates. The people. The places. They glamorized our founding fathers. Here were these great men, these great leaders that stood up to tyranny, broke free and formed this new, mighty country. Together. United. Facing a powerful enemy. All for the noble causes of freedom and liberty. Pretty great stuff. That's what I always thought I guess. The patriots all stood up against England, and collectively started our nation. I should have thought about it more. When have you ever known a group of anybody to come together, in unison, and easily agree on something? On anything? Trying to appease everyone is impossible. Sometimes picking a restaurant for a group can be unnerving. But, starting a revolution? Forming a new country? A new government? As a group? Unthinkable. Not without constant conflict and disagreement the entire way.

“These are the times that try men's souls.” -Benjamin Franklin

December 16, 1773 

Angered by what they thought to be unfair taxes on tea, a growing number of American patriots demanded action. On this night, they did. There was still much disagreement on what was the correct course of action. For days, the well known leaders debated and argued at the Old South Meeting house about how to send a message to England. They had had enough. Meanwhile, several lesser-known men (acting on orders from the men still arguing) went to the Boston harbor, and dumped £9,000 of East India Company tea overboard. While still pretending to debate their actions, they had already been carried out.

Constant conflict and disagreement are two things our family understands. Jenny and I have been together for over 20 years. Our three young girls are close together in age. We all spend a lot of time together. More than most families. It's inescapable. Fights happen. There is drama. There is conflict. Often. Our kids are home-schooled, so there is plenty of opportunity throughout each and every day for them to flip out on each other. And they do. Daily. Then, eventually they separate. They go to their rooms, or outside or wherever it is, just to get away from each other. Time passes, and they get over it. They forget, or move on. They go back to their default mode of “actually liking each other, or at least pretending to... for now...” Then something sparks it again. Repeat that on a never-ending loop, and that is our lives. On the road, it's not that simple. When you're in a hotel, where can you run off to and pout? The closet? (Nadia did once.) When schedules are tight, how can you make time for fighting? You just do. When it's crowded and bustling where you are, how can you yell it out? How can you cry and scream? You find a way. (we have)

"One if by land. Two if by sea."

April 18-19 1775

War was eminent now. As British troops continued to build, the issue was no longer IF they would attack, it was WHERE and WHEN. Upon hearing word that England was advancing, Paul Revere, and the Sons of Liberty warned the countryside of their advance. Lexington and Concord would be first. War had begun.

 

A full three years went by between the massacre and the tea party. Three years before taking grand measures. It was then three more years after that before we declared our independence. By today's standards that seemed like a long time to me. What took so long? Why the delay? Sure, things took longer back then. I get that. Correspondences were slow. Travel was even slower. But it wasn't just that. It was all the infighting. The bickering. Just like our family, drama slowed everything down. Getting everyone to agree on something so grand was challenging. So, then surely once the war began, everyone in the colonies would come together in agreement, right?

If Boston was where the ideas for this country were dreamed up, then Philadelphia is where they became a realization. That would be our next stop. 

The last piece to my East Coast family, is my Mom's only brother, my Uncle Jimmy. He lives in the house he grew up in, just outside of Philadelphia. 
 

After retiring from a long and accomplished career as a high school band director, Jimmy followed his other real passion: acting. As a professional theater actor, he has performed in dozens of shows, and just the right one was in store for our visit.

James Conte as Hopkins (in the hat)

1776: The Musical tells the story of the Continental Congress and their long drawn out debates over what eventually became the Declaration of Independence. The cast were all members of that original Congress. Each representing a different colony. The hard selling John Adams. The wise Ben Franklin (uncannily played by John Morrison.) The young and unproven Thomas Jefferson. The drunken Stephen Hopkins (hilariously played by Jimmy!) 

“We must all hang together,
or assuredly we shall
all hang separately.”
-Benjamin Franklin

They sat and argued. And argued. And argued. Each bringing their own ideals into the mix. Their own agendas. No one seemed to agree about anything. It felt like nothing was ever going to get done. What were these guys, a bunch of siblings? Even though we already knew the ending, (SPOILER ALERT: They signed it.) we kept wondering, how did this ever happen? How did anything get accomplished? Their infighting was endless. These colonies wanted it this way. These other colonies wanted it that way. Vote like this. Say it like that. Nothing. Everything. Nothing. Imagine a colonial 12 Angry Men. Now add one more guy. And some singing. That was the show. It was compelling. And telling. And maddening. By the end, the girls had picked out the delegates they liked and the ones they couldn't stand. (“stupid South Carolina guy”) They were definitely paying attention. 

"Let us dare to read, think, speak, and write." 

-John Adams

July 2, 1776 The Continental Congress unanimously agrees to declare their independence from Britain. Two days later the document stating our intentions was signed at Independence Hall, forever changing our country.

 We had seen who these great leaders were. We stood in some of the homes where they lived. We walked through buildings they walked through. We sat in rooms they debated in. We knelt at their grave sites. We started to see them differently. They weren't perfect. They had hidden agendas. Some were rude. Loud. Self righteous. Ambiguous. Their ideas weren't perfect either. They fought. They compromised. They reasoned. They made it work. Somehow.

“"I know not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!"

- Patrick Henry

“Tell me and I forget. 

Teach me and I remember. 

Involve me and I learn.”

- Benjamin Franklin

But in the end (obviously) our Founding Father's did it. They came to an agreement. They put their names down on that document. Together. They worked out their differences. They made compromises. All for a greater good. Maybe my schooling was right all along. Maybe, it's really WHAT these men accomplished that's important. Not necessarily how they got there. Or what was said to each other. Or the compromises they made. Maybe none of that mattered. Maybe that's the lesson our kids will take away from this. People disagree. Things are said. Arguments ensue. But, that's how things get solved. That's how great things are created. Adversity. Struggle. Resolution. It never comes easy. It shouldn't. But in the end, it's worth it.

In the end, our travels won't be remembered for the fights on the subways. The tears in the streets. The disagreements on what to listen to in the car. In then end, it's what we do that matters.  
 




So, I guess, we should continue on fighting then. Continue arguing. Keep crying. And yelling. Then we'll just work it all out. We'll resolve it. We'll grow from it. Things will get better.

And who knows, maybe a new country or two will come out of it.

Lesson learned.

Graffiti Loving Apartment Dwellers

Signs of the Native American culture are abundant throughout the southwestern United States. Everywhere we went, there was evidence of their rich and storied history. Roadside stands selling jewelry. Their influence in the local artwork. Casinos. Their impact could be felt all over the region. While in Arizona, we took several different day trips to check out some of the ancient ruins left by the Native Americans.


The different tribes of the region are collectively called the Ancient Pueblo Indians. A pueblo, as we learned is essentially an ancient apartment building. Made in the adobe mud-style, or with rocks and stones, these large buildings housed many families. Sometimes built into cliffs, and other times up high in the mountains, groups of these structures formed small cities. At one time, there were hundreds of these villages throughout the region.

Montezuma did not live here. Sinaguans did.

Our first stop was the inappropriately named Montezuma Castle. When discovered by Europeans, it reminded them of similar looking Aztec structures, so they named it after their ruler. It was not Aztec, and Montezuma was never even in Arizona. It also wasn't a castle, but a pueblo, built for the Sinaguan tribe to live in. But, as a park ranger told us, Montezuma Castle National Monument sounds a lot cooler than 'Ancient Native American Apartment Building National Monument.' She was right. The Sinaguan people lived peacefully there, along a major trading route, for hundreds of years. Then, for some unexplained reason, they up and vanished. What they left behind, was an awesome example of pueblo construction. Nestled up high in a cliff, they had to climb ladders to reach their homes. This not only protected the residents from invaders, but also protected the structures from Mother Nature. We learned that as recently as the 1950s , people were allowed to climb inside these ruins and explore all over. Once hearing this, that's all the girls wanted to do. I can't blame them. I did too.
















Next up, was the awesomely named Tuzigoot. (too-zee-goot....kinda rolls off the tongue doesn't it?) Located in the Verde Valley, north of Phoenix, this archaeological site was yet another example of pueblo construction. This excavated site was also once home to the Sinaguan people. Sitting high upon a plateau, these buildings once housed over a hundred people at its peak. Here, we were allowed to walk throughout the place, exploring and imagining what it was like to live there. Throughout the valley were once dozens of villages similar to Tuzigoot. This remains the only one to be excavated and open to the public. Tuzigoot!

In addition to leaving cool structures for generations to explore, the Native Americans of the southwest also left behind rock carvings, known as petroglyphs. Specifically in Arizona, the Hohokam tribes made lots and lots of these artifacts. Several different parks and hikes lead us right by some really cool examples of this ancient artwork.


There is still much that we don't know about petroglyphs. Mainly, historians don't really understand what their purpose was. They do know that petroglyphs, unlike hieroglyphics, do not represent certain words or letters. Were they emblematic of different clans? Were they directions to specific locations? Or, were they just graffiti? It remains a mystery. We know they looked cool, though. The girls sat and copied their favorite ones onto paper, and tried to come up with meanings for them. Some were obvious. A human shape. Water. Animals with antlers. Others though, were more abstract. Squiggly lines. Swirls. Scribbles. It was pretty cool to imagine a Native American carving them a thousand years ago, as the girls sat there, in the same exact spot they once did, copying them onto their art pads. Awesome stuff.

Saguaro National Park petroglyphs

Bollinger Mill

     In the hilariously named town of Burfordville. (say it out loud to yourself...not Bu-fordville... Burrr-ford-ville) stands the Bollinger Mill. Adjacent to the still functioning 200 year-old mill, spans a historic covered bridge. The bridge dates back to the Civil War, and is one of just four covered bridges remaining in Missouri.

A gorgeous, fall afternoon was a perfect day for a picnic. We explored, played a fierce game of tag, and ate lunch by the edge of the Whitewater River. Joining us that day was a fellow wanderer, a playful black Lab who loved chasing sticks. He hung out with us for an hour, before trotting off to find some more new best friends. Happy wandering doggie!